Monthly Memo From Doi's Culinary Philosophy
Original text by Doi Yoshiharu
Translated by Yoshiko Fukuda
July- Fumizuki
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◎In between the rainy season days, the sun has started declaring its presence. However, in the Kantou region, it will take about two to three more weeks for the rainy season to pass.
During the rainy season, the outbreak of food poisoning occurs at a greater frequency. This, of course, is due to high humidity and its dampness. Both provide the most favorable environment for bacteria which causes food poisoning. Therefore, cooked dishes should not be left out in room temperature but instead, should be eaten right away. That is the most safest and the best way to eat a delicious meal. Food governs everyone's health and might influence problems concerning life and death. Please, be careful and try to protect yourselves.◎In Okinawa, they officially declared the rainy season to be over on the 21st of last month. A subtropical region with its high temperature and humidity must be getting quite hot already. For a hot area like Okinawa, others often imagine that the people only eat cold food to cool themselves off and get their mind off of the heat. However, surprisingly, they eat many hot menus (even hotter since they eat it right after it is cooked), daily! Like I have said before, if the food was just cooked then it would not have any time to grow any bacteria in it. The best way to eat meals is simply that. Right off the pan.
Cooking is originally what humans invented as a way to survive. Cooking flavors natural ingredients to our liking and heats raw meat. Thus cooking what is in that region according to its traditional cooking method is indeed the best to maintain one's health.
When it comes to food from Okinawa, masculine type of recipes always gets introduced. For example, images like man gathering around raw goat meat and having a healthful feast, comes into mind. Of course, goat meat is palatable only when its fresh which means the goat that we pictured must have been slaughtered just minutes ago. Other cooking that pops into mind include goat sashimi(eaten raw), boiled testicles flavored with miso, vinegar, and many more dishes that can be characterized as tonic-like food, mainly enjoyed by men of Okinawa.
However, daily home cooking consists of many dainty foods that incorporates vegetables satisfying anyone's appetite even if they are eaten everyday.Enjoy our menu from the island of health-conscious people, Okinawa and prevent yourself from getting summer illnesses.
◎This month's essay will introduce the Okinawa menu that will be served at Ajiichii from September 3rd to 14th .
●Sakizuke (Appetizer of seasonal flavors)
*Tofu- you
Tofu is each cut into a 3 by 3 square, then is salted and dried for three days in the shade. For six month they are placed in a liquid made up of rice malt and a liquor called awamori, mixed with red malt, for them to naturally ferment. Tofu-you at Ajiichii is made by a distinguished Okinawa food Chef, Ayaka Yamamoto. (Yamamoto Ayaka's Restaurant; 1-16-3 Kume Naha-shi; Tel.098-868-3456）*A-sa-jiru
A-sa is green seaweed that can be obtained in Okinawa seas, called hitoe-gusa. Stock used for a-sa-jiru is bonito. In Okinawa, either pork or bonito is used for stock, but not konbu (kelp seaweed).●Tsukuri (assorted sashimi)
*Sashimi with "green" vinegar
In Okinawa, sea food menus are not as developed as they are in other regions. This is probably due to the fact that food gets spoiled faster and easier in their environment. Therefore, garlic and vinegar which has a sterilizing effect is used in sashimi, where the two is mixed with graded cucumber to make a "green" vinegar dressing.●Nimono (stewed dishes)
* Rafute
Rafute is stewed block pieces of pork and is a very popular pork dish in Okinawa. Pork in Okinawa is mostly cooked with its skin. That skin is not fat but more gelatinous. Gelatin, a very important ingredient that ontains collagen, is known to make one's skin smoother.
In Okinawa cooking method, pork is boiled in the beginning. Since rafute is a refined dish, the pork is cut into perfect squares and is simmered slowly in awamori and bonito stock. The extra cut off pieces of pork, used up pork stock and lard excess from lengthy simmering will be reused for other menus. For rainy days, Okinawa home cooking serves a little bit of meat with greater amount of vegetable and seaweed.●Hassunzara (morsels of different food served on the same plate)
*Minudaru
Minudaru is a plate of steamed pork flavored with sprinkled black sesame seeds. The dish employs the color black which was the royal color from the Ryukyu dynasty.*Beni-satsumaimo (red sweet potato)
Okinawa beni imo has a strong rich flavor even when it is steamed by itself. Originally, in Okinawa, where rice could not be harvested, this yam was the staple food. Ikujia-gi is a dish of fried dumpling of steamed yam mixed with yam starch.*Salt of Aguni
Salt from Aguni contains the most mineral of 15%. It is not saline even when it is directly licked. (Okinawa Salt Institute Tel. 098-988-2160)*Kelp Seaweed
There are two kinds of kelp seaweed. One is solely used for stock and the other is for stewed dishes. Sea weed that is mainly used for Okinawa cooking is the stewed sea kelp like the ones that are used for kelp seaweed rolls which can be eaten just by itself.
*Ku-bu Irichi
Kubu is konbu (kelp sea weed) and irichi is itamemono (cooked in a pan). Okinawa word differ slightly from the standard Japanese spoken in Tokyo but most are similar enough that the words can be figured out. Kelp sea weed which was boiled in pork broth, is put together with stewewed and flavored pork, konnyaku(devil's tongue) and fried bean curd. Ku-bu irichi serves the original taste of the ingredients.*Na-be-ra
Na-be-ra is otherwise known as sponge cucumber. When the na-be-ra is boiled the color turns to bright green and the seeds even become palatable. To boil, the na-be-ra's skin needs to be scraped off with a knife and then the vegetable should be cut crosswise.*Fu-i-ri-chi
After the malt is reconstructed, then get rid of all its moisture and then mix with eggs. Flavor it with some salt and then cook on a pan. This will result in something like a French toast.*Kasutera-kamaboko (steamed fish paste cake)
In homes, kamaboko was traditionally made in order to preserve fish which was easy to spoil. Kasutera kamaboko is unlike the ones that attach importance to the texture, but this simply provides one with the genuine taste of fish.●Broiled and Pan Fried Dishes
*So-minta-shiya
So-minta-shiya is heated somen(a thin noodle made from flour). Although somen is usually served cold this hot recipe is much more referred. It is flavored with shozzuru (fish sauce), bonito shavings, green onions and raw shallot bulb as condiment.
*Goya
Goya is a popular Okinawa vegetable that contains rich amounts of vitamins C, which is known to maintain the body's health during hot seasons. Most vitamins C usually gets destroyed when it is heated but the vitamin c contained in goya mostly remains. Chanpuru is a stir fried dish of tofu and other vegetables. After the meal, a drink of grated goya, honey, lemon and water can be enjoyed. When one gets used to the bitterness of the goya the juice can be a pleasant indulgence.●Dessert
*Ji-ma-mi Tofu (Peanut tofu)
Just like black sesame tofu, the peanuts are kneaded but instead of kudzu vine, starch from the sweet potatoes is used.
*Tun-fan
Tufan is a Okinawa cooked rice which kelp sea weed and various vegetables and rice are cooked in pork broth. After it is done lard in mixed in at the end.
*Black sugar
Black sugar is made from the sugar cane harvested in Okinawa. Its characteristic is the strong harshness that is why the white of an egg was broiled together to lessen the strong taste. From the sugar, texture filled kuromitukan, crepe-like chinpin, amagashi of green beans and dried wheat can be made.For this month's menu which I have introduced as Okinawa food. All the cooking was taught to me by Ayaka Yamamoto and Jyunko Ajito. Then I made them into original Ajiichii recipes. I would like to use this opportunity to thank those who helped me in making this menu work and enjoyable.
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